Fortaleza, Brazil

Day 28 - 30

Entering Fortaleza

We docked stern-to just before 7am on 21 September at the Marina Park Hotel, a massive, square structure with a private marina. With the "Temptress' secured, Pat and I set foot on Brazilian soil for the first time. We didn't think that we'd go to S America at all when we left SA - even St Helena. What a surprise! Along with docking at the hotel, we had free use of their facilities incl. the swimming pool area, showers, WiFi, and pool tables. The first thing I wanted to do was take an unlimited fresh water shower - which was so refreshing! There wasn't any warm water but it was so hot that early in the morning already that you'd only want cold water.

After freshening up, we got all our relevant documents together and headed out to the customs and immigration offices. What a mission that turned out to be!
We all got into a Taxi from the Hotel and got a guided tour from our captain (the driver couldn't speak english) who has been there a few times before. Fortaleza is a city of northeast Brazil northwest of Natal on the Atlantic Ocean. Founded in 1609, it is a thriving port and industrial center with a population of 2,370,000 ppl. Brazil's poverty became evident as a lot of the areas we drove through were dirty and badly maintained: rubbish on the sreets, dirty cars and houses, and large run-down buildings. Yet, all the people that we saw were well dressed, presentable and walked with pride. Over the next few days we'd see that continuously.

Arriving at the Immigrations office at the Harbour, we headed directly to the man in charge. The Captain did all the talking and took care of the paperwork. However, the relevant men in charge made us run up and down btw the customs and Immigration offices for about three hours! I think they had some bet going as to how often we'd walk back and forth for them...

Eventually we decided we had enough stamps and proceeded to avoid any official looking person by heading to Croco Beach. It's a resort-style beach overrun with tourists - local and int'l. There were hundreds of ppl lounging under palm tree umbrellas set up like a restaurant, with waiters and peddlers (selling all sorts of trinkets, food, drinks and clothes) combing every row, hoping for a sale.

Our main interest was getting some shade from the intense heat and a refreshingly cool Caiperoska/Caiperhina. The difference btw the two drinks is in the alcohol used - either the local rum/vodka. Both of them are good! Most of the ladies on the beach were showing off their bronzed bodies in skimpy g-string bikins. The men were'nt wearing much more - we'd arrived in Brazil! I felt a little odd being so pale and wearing so much - only my bikini. Nevertheless, we all sat back and enjoyed the ice-cold drinks and sights. Brazilians are really beautiful - no matter what shape their bodies take, every person walks around with glowing pride and self-assurance.

By now, a few hours had passed and the bellies were rumbling. Normally, onboard "The Temptress", we eat whenever we're hungry and food is always close at hand. However, we were on land and the captain and mate were craving pizza. So we headed back towards the Hotel along the main beach strip to find the restaurant that's been tried and tested as having excellent pizza. It was midday and super hot! No-one else was walking or even in the vicinity of the vast beach and paved Miami-style beach strip. We walked for a long time and no restaurant along the way was serving pizza - only from 7pm when the ppl start going to dinner. Eventually we got to the desired restaurant - no pizza, but great caiperhinas! After a quick drink we headed out once more. I didn't really want pizza as I wanted to try what Brazilian food is like and finally, convinced that there was no pizza to be found, the cptn and mate agreed to try a local place. 

Enjoying "Antart-ch-ica" (phonetic) Beers and the prospect of great food!

The restaurant was one of many situated in a large piazza, with a fountain, art museum and university/college in the area. There were only 2 patrons and their food smelt and looked so good that Pat and I ordered exactly what they had (also, we couldn't read the menu - only guess). It turned out to be a large platter of prawns and veg on a bed of rice, all covered in molten cheese! The cptn and mate had a Trinchada type dish with chips. All of it was tasty and filling, with the setting providing a great way to wind down the day.

I did however notice the heavy police and armed guard presence - perhaps the reason I was taking so few photos is because I didn't want to look too touristy. The police/guards were wearing almost full riot gear all the time; they were particularly present around banks, ATMs, shopping malls, McDonald's, Subways and other more affluent areas. A scary thought considering such heavy presence was needed to deter potential criminals.

 At the main fortress (no details) near the marina 

On a lighter note, we wandered back to the hotel, bellies full and stopped off at a petrol station to get some extra beers (expensive hotel). Back at the hotel's pool, we swam, chilled and connected with the world that the internet gives us easy access to: back home. Yet, I was tired from a long, active and successful day, perusing around a big Brazilian city, and eventually joined Pat for an early night. Also, being up the whole day and into the night was weird for us, as on the yacht, we'd go to sleep not long after the sun set so that we'd be alert for our night watches. It felt good to stay out til around 10pm!

I woke up around 6am the following morning feeling refreshed and ready to do.... not much besides laze around the pool and do some serious catching up with mails, photos, friends and family. Pat was up at 4am already (body clock goes nuts on land) checking mails etc. Needless to say, we spent almost the entire day skyping, mailing, and checking out FB! It was great! The Cptn went shopping in town for fresh supplies and we filled up with water that morning. We then set up camp around the pool with our laptops and were almost glued to them. The other guests at the hotel probably came all the way to this part of the world to get away from technology and being connected, whilst we're out of touch 24/7. A bizarre sight we must have been. 

View from the pool area



View of the pool area and Hotel

Just chilling Mon

As the heat of the day started to subside, Pat and I headed into town for a walk to see what Fortaleza was like at night. We headed back the way we'd come the night before and went to the Central Market; a four storey, round complex with hundreds of stalls, all selling the same thing! Loads of trinkets, jewellry, nuts, clothes and flea market items. I got a pair of small studs and 1kg of cashew nuts - sooo delicious! We continued on to the piazza from the day before and meandered around.

           

Evening lights over Fortaleza

The full moon was rising on the one side and the sun setting on the other - a gorgeous end to a relaxing day. the piazza was slowly filling up with ppl - many of them young students and teenagers. We found the cptn and mate enjoying another Antartchica (half price special) at one of the restaurants and joined them. A long discussion of history and poilitics followed. It was fascinating to hear the history of Macedonia first hand as our cptn is from that part of the world.

Making  a plan

The discussion continued as we proceeded towards the beach strip, which, during the day was devoid of any life, was now filled with hundreds of excercising locals. I have never seen so many ppl exercising together in one place, at night. Rollerblading, cycling, running, yoga, beach volleybal and soccer, various stretching and many more! It was impressive. Again, it shows the pride that Brazilians take in their appearance which makes them so confident and, well, Brazilian.

We were hoping to find loads of vendors selling various food stuffs on a stick but there was only popcorn, boiled milies and coconuts available. Still delicious! We wandered along towards the big open air flea market which stretched along a large portion of the strip. Our windowshopping satisfied we headed back towards a massive pier with restaurants - all empty! A Wednesday night, though great for excercise, apparently wasn't the "happening" night for a party. Still, we got some drinks at a restaurant down the road and while the cptn and mate ordered a meal, Pat and I decided to see if there was more partying to be done along the beach.

Taking a break after much walking

By the time we got there, just after 10pm, it was nearly empty. Oh well, we tried. A small beach side, open air restaurant lured us in with giant Antartchica Beers and a good menu. The meal we got was a mixed seafood platter, all grilled, with chips and a curry sauce. Njum! It was fun to see that after ten, the family oriented ppl with kids had gone and were replaced with older men and prostitutes. They were all mingling at the various restaurants, ours included. When it became evident that we were not customers it got a little awkward, and both customers and prostitues were starting to leave around 1am. Also,the police presence increased so we got a taxi back to the marina and observed almost every street corner we'd walked on that day, occupied by a lady of the night.

At 2am it felt good to be rocked to sleep on our yacht. The following day we all sent out our last mails, Pat went to the store to stock up on cookies, chocolate, som beers and a mini rum for the upcoming equator crossing. With the last money, I indulged in an ice cream with Pat and lounged by the pool til it was time to set sail once more.

We'd restocked as much as was needed on fresh fruit, veg and bread and were ready to get to our next destination: St Lucia. Having cast off our lines, we manoeuvred out of the bay and set our course. The weather reports predicted clear weather little wind, increasing as we get nearer to St Lucia. Let's see.